Leopard Gecko Care Guide

Leopard geckos are one of the most popular pet reptiles due to their manageable size, calm temperment, and relatively simple care requirements. Native to dry grasslands and rocky deserts in areas such as Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India. They thrive in warm, low humidity environments.

Scientific Name : Eublepharis macularius

Average Adult Size : 7-11 inches

Lifespan : 15-25+ years with proper care

They are crepuscular which means they are most active at dawn and dusk

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Enclosure Setup

Minimum enclosure size is 36x18x18 (40 gallon breeder) A larger enclosure allows for better temperature gradients, enrichment, and natural behaviors. Best types of enclosures to get are front opening terrariums, glass tanks with screen tops and pvc enclosures for better heat retention. Avoid tall arboreal enclosures, as leopard geckos are terrestrial. Leopard geckos are best housed alone. Housing multiple geckos together may lead to stress, bullying, food competion and injuries. Males should never be housed together.

 

Temperature, Heating and Lighting

Proper temperatures are essential for digestion and overall health. Recommended temperatures - warm side (90F-95F) cool side (78F-83F) night temps (70F-75F).

Heating equipment - halogen heat bulb or deep heat projector recommended or an under tank heat mat that is used with a thermostat. Always use a thermostat with any heat source. Use digital thermometers and an infrared temperature gun to measure the temperatures accurately.

Leopard geckos do not require intense lighting, but a proper day/night cycle is important. Albino leopard geckos can be more sensitive to bright light because they have less pigmentation in their skin and eyes. Keep lighting gentle and always provide plenty of shaded hides and sheltered areas where your gecko can retreat when it wants to get out of the light. Avoid harsh or overly bright lighting and consider using a dimmer or diffuser if needed to reduce the intensity. Your gecko should always have the ability to move into a darker, shaded area whenever it chooses. Using a low level UVB light can be beneficial. 

 

Humidity

A humid hide is extremely important to have for your leopard gecko to shed properly. Place the humid hide partially on the warm side of the enclosure. You can use damp sphagnum moss, damp paper towel and moist eco earth and organic topsoil mixed together. The ideal humidity in the enclosure should be around 30-40%. Too much humidity may lead to respiratory infections and skink problems. Healthy leopard geckos shed regularly. Signs your gecko is shedding are when they look dull and pale, they have a reduced appetite and are hiding more. 

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Substrate

Leopard geckos can be successfully kept on a variety of substrates, but it is important to choose one that is safe and appropriate for your gecko. Leopard geckos naturally lick and explore their surroundings, which means they may accidentally ingest loose substrate. Some materials can cause digestive blockages (impaction) if swallowed, potentially leading to serious health complications. We recommend using plain paper towels as substrate for the first few weeks after bringing your leopard gecko home. Paper towels make it easy to monitor their poop, appetite, and overall health while they adjust to their new environment. They are also simple to clean and replace if soiled. Once your gecko is settled in and doing well, you can transition to a more permanent substrate if desired. Reptile safe eco earth and organic topsoil even excavator clay are good choices. Every leopard gecko should have at least a warm hide, cool hide and a humid hide. Hides help reduce stress and make the gecko feel secure.

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Diet and Feeding

Leopard geckos are insectivores. Staple feeders are mealworms, dubia roaches, crickets and black soldier fly larvae. Occasional treats are waxworms, hornworms and superworms. Treat insects should be fed sparingly due to high fat content. Feed appropriately sized insects, no larger than the space between the gecko's eyes. Adults should eat 2 to 3 times a week, juveniles every 1 to 2 days. Feed your insects nutritious foods 24 to 48 hours before feeding them to your gecko. Gut loading foods are collard greens, squash, carrots and commercial insect diets. Always provide fresh clean water in a shallow dish and change daily.

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Calcium & Supplementation

In the wild, leopard geckos naturally encounter a variety of prey and may also consume small amounts of soil, which can contribute to their overall nutrient intake. In captivity, their diet is more limited, so proper supplementation is essential to help provide the nutrients they need. Leopard geckos should receive appropriate calcium and vitamin supplementation regularly. Proper supplementation helps support healthy bones, growth, muscle function, and overall health. Without adequate calcium and vitamins, leopard geckos can develop serious nutritional deficiencies, including Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). We recommend Repashy SuperCal MeD and Repashy Calcium Plus. We always have a small dish of the SuperCal available in the enclosure, and we sprinkle the Calcium Plus on the feeders every other feeding. Supplement schedules may vary depending on your UVB light. 

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Handling & Behavior

Leopard geckos are generally docile and tolerate handling well when properly socialized. Some tips are to let new geckos settle in for at least a week, always support their entire body, avoid grabbing them from above, never grab them by their tail as they can drop their tails as a defense mechanism and keep handling sessions to a minimum. 

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With proper care, patience, and a little time to adjust, your leopard gecko can become a wonderful long-term companion. Remember that every gecko is different, so allow yours to settle in and get comfortable at its own pace.  Always do your research before purchasing your leopard gecko. We’re always happy to help, so if you have questions or concerns about your gecko, please don’t hesitate to reach out at sales@evolverreptiles.com

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